1968 MPC Olsonite Eagle – fixing the rear track

One of the best early plastic Indy car models was the MPC Olsonite Eagle kit, replicating the Weslake powered car driven by Dan Gurney or the Ford DOHC powered car driven by team mate Dennis Hulme. This kit featured a level of detail and accuracy that would not be seen until the late 80s when the AMT Lola’s and Penske kits came out. While not a great kit by today’s standards, a little bit of time, patience and some updated decals can produce a really nice build. The biggest flaw of the kit, however, is that the rear wheels sit way too far apart. I’m going to show you how to easily narrow the rear track of the car to make it look better.


First remove the ‘hooks’ on the end of the lower wishbones. These hold the rear uprights. We are going to bring the rear uprights inward so they sit on top of the wishbone.


Next, remove the bottom of the uprights – make the cut right at the top of the pins that stick out on either side. Picture shows before and after cutting.


Since we are bringing the uprights in about 1/8 of a inch (3.2mm), we need to remove 1/8″ from the upper wishbone. I found it was pretty easy to just trim it out with an Xacto knife and just glue it back together. You will also need to remove the pins at the front of the wishbone as the mounting point on the tub is going to move slightly forward.


Next, remove the end off the driveshaft. It’s easiest to cut where I have the dotted line. At this time, drill out the inside of the uprights to accommodate the driveshaft – you don’t need to go much bigger than what’s already there, just find a drill bit that is the same diameter as the driveshaft.

Once you have made these mods you are ready to start assembly of the rear suspension. It goes together the same as it did before mods, except as noted where the uprights sit on the end of the lower wishbones. You will also need to trim off the bottom end of the rear shocks. You may find that the rear wheels rub against the bottom of the shock, so you may need to trim it a bit. The rear swaybar parts do not need to be adjusted as thier mounting points do not change. Here is the finished results:


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